Rebecca
Thomas
August
15, 2014
Professor
Vanderveen
Visual
Ethnography
Color and Tradition
Colors have been used throughout
history to express ideas ranging from aesthetic pleasantry to powerful
statements of war, hope, or other concepts that are more difficult to put into
words. In other cases, the colors seen in a culture are merely the resources
available at the time. For example, there may be more red seen in a culture if
there is a certain plant, animal, or mineral that produces that color. By
extension, a resource that is more rare may result in a reduced prominence of
that particular color within the culture. Speaking specifically about the
Zapotec people, master weavers as well as color creators, many insights about
the use of color and how it was gained can be learned by looking at the details
that go into coloring thread for weaving. Not only does this apply to weaving,
but also other areas such as painting pots and decorating buildings. Today,
though it may not be for the same reasons, many of the same colors can be seen
in modern day Mexico.
The Zapotec people began weaving
roughly 1,700 years ago. Today, it is one of the many qualities the Zapotec
people are known for. Over the years, however, the influence of the Spanish
colonization as well as readily available contact with the outside world has
greatly shaped the way that weaving is accomplished (rosengren.net). Many of
the common colors in traditional Zapotec weaving are reds, browns, blues,
greens, and yellows. Interestingly enough, these colors can all be created
through the use of organic material that is native to the area (porfiriogutierrez.com).
One of the most famous methods for making dye comes from the nopal cactus. Not for
the cactus itself, but for the inhabitants of each cactus plant. Nestled
securely within each sturdy nopal leaf is an insect called the cochineal. This
tiny insect has great color potential for the Zapotec people. When the cochineal
is crushed, it creates a vibrant red dye that can be used for dying the wool
that is used in traditional Zapotec weaving. Though the bug must not be
harvested until it is at least 90 days old. In addition, it must be picked by
hand in order to avoid inadvertently crushing it before the desired time, each
cochineal produces a significant amount of red dye for its body size
(clothroads.com). This does not mean, however, that a great amount of dye is produced.
Merely that the amount produced is large in proportion to its small body.
Another common source for dyes
came from plants. Examples of this are flowers and herbs such as marigolds for
yellows, indigofera for blues, pecan shells for browns, and sapote used for
blacks. Common methods for extracting dye include boiling the plants in water along
with the wool that is going to be dyed or grinding them with a traditional
stone tool called a metate (zokuhandicrafts.com). These methods can be
intricate, time-consuming processes that can take both time and precision.
Thinking about this in terms of how the Zapotec people lived long before large,
factory machinery, the idea of having to boil the wool in small quantities,
crush up small insects, or hand grind a plant into a fine powder in order to
then combine it with the wool by hand is a long, tiring, and expensive process.
These vibrant colors, however, are easily recognized and admired for their
beauty.
When the Spanish came to colonize
Mexico and the Zapotec people, there was an indelible mark left upon the art of
Zapotec weaving; stronger wool and stronger looms. Not only did weaving become
an easier task, but also the products lasted longer. In addition, once the
Spanish discovered the value of the cochineal bug, the market for them became
huge when it came to exporting them back to Spain. Looking back, this moment in
history helps lend the art of weaving to more of a commercial entity than one
of personal use. Because the wool was stronger than the cactus or other plant
fibers used before the presence of the Spanish, larger, more impressive items
could be made (rosengren.net). In addition, with stronger wool and looms, it
made more sense to, after making a rug for oneself, make one for a neighbor and
perhaps charge a small fee. The added desire for the cochineal insect and its
impressive color producing abilities also drew attention to the Zapotec people
and their weaving industry.
Today in modern Mexico, woven
blankets, clothing, and other items such as table clothes are abundant. Interestingly
enough, the audience targeted with these items are not the locals, but
tourists. Along with the changing market, the method of coloring the wool has
also changed. The first, less dramatic way, is that the science of color making
is constantly being refined and perfected through the understanding of basic
chemistry. In other words, it was discovered that controlling the pH of the
natural dye could change the tints, tones, and shades of any hue. In order to
do this, baking soda or lemon juice is added to the dye. By adding these pH
changers, the vibrant color red can be reduced to an orange or yellow depending
on the desired effect. By extension, adding an ingredient that is more basic
will allow for the more vibrant colors to return (carolynkallenborn.com). This
technique has created many new color possibilities for the weaving world. This
means that there are more colors available to appeal to a larger market.
The other direction that weaving
took was the use of synthetic dyes instead of all natural, organic dyes. These
were cheaper and easier to come by because they essentially mimicked the dying
capabilities of food coloring. Interestingly enough, the cochineal bug
mentioned earlier that, when crushed, produces a bright red dye, also produces
a chemical that is the predecessor to food coloring. By producing the chemical
synthetically, workers did not have to find the nopal plant and search its
leaves for the tiny cochineal bug to harvest by hand with great care not to
crush them on the spot. This saved time, energy, and money. After a number of
years, however, there was a movement to begin using the natural, organic dyes
again for a couple of reasons. The first was that there was a health concern
with the synthetic dye. The other concern is that a woven piece made from
synthetic dye is not as high of a quality as one made from organic dyes
(Wikipedia.org). This means that a rug made from the natural dye of the
cochineal bug is actually more valuable than one made of the synthetic
equivalent. In other words, demand for authentic, Zapotec woven goods began to
emerge again.
Today, the Zapotec culture and
economy rely heavily on tourism. With many archaeological sites in Mexico,
specifically Oaxaca, there is a great deal of activity to attract people to see
the ancient ruins of Monte Albán or the large 2,000-year-old Tule tree. Along
with the experience of seeing the sights, it is also common for people to want
to take souvenirs with them when they return home. Interestingly enough, woven
goods today, much like hundreds of years ago, possess patterns that resemble
some of the archaeological sites. In addition, there are advertisements for
some modern weaving establishments that emphasize their use of all natural,
organic dyes instead of the cheaper, synthetic dyes.
Though these facts may seem
unrelated, they both help shed light on the story of weaving and color in the
Zapotec weaving community. It is a story that began almost 2,000 years ago
using more difficult, tedious methods of creating woven goods. Beginning with
harvesting the ingredients needed to create the desired color along with the
cotton or cactus fiber that would become the finished, woven product. Next, the
harvested ingredients would have to be prepared, which as stated earlier, could
have taken up to 90 days just for the cochineal bug to be ready (which is only
one color in a piece that could potentially have multiple colors). After the
piece is complete, which would take a while on the slower version of the loom;
it may not last very long due to the weak material. Next, with the influence of
the Spanish, the gears of production began to turn as the stronger wool and
better quality loom helped the Zapotec people create woven goods more
efficiently. The method of obtaining dye, however, was relatively unchanged.
There still remained a painfully slow process of obtaining and preparing the ingredients.
Lastly, with the rise of tourism, technology, and demand for woven goods from
the Zapotec, the rise and now slight fall of synthetic dyes has been witnessed.
Throughout this entire story, there
has been a trait of the woven goods of the Zapotec that has remained relatively
constant; color. From the beginning, the Zapotec were using natural products
around them in order to create color and that still continues today. In fact,
there is a push from the public to preserve the way of using natural dye
products such as plants and the cochineal bug. This is evidence that in Oaxaca
today, there is a tradition that has been carried down almost 2,000 years
through Zapotec heritage.
Nopal
plant (Taken outside of Cholula, Mexico July 13, 2014)
Cochineal
bugs (middle of the palm) from the nopal plant (Taken by Jay Vanderveen outside
of Oaxaca, Mexico, July 31, 2014)
This
is the cochineal bug’s red color after being crushed. The variation in the red
colors is due to different pH levels of the skin of different people (Taken by
Jay Vanderveen outside of Oaxaca, Mexico, July 31, 2014)
Wool
dyed by natural, organic dyes create a wide range of colors (Taken by Jay
Vanderveen outside of Oaxaca, Mexico, July 31, 2014)
Traditional,
tejido weaving, a style of weaving well known in Oaxaca, Mexico (Taken by Ai
Wan Choong in Oacaca, Mexico, July 31, 2014)
Pieces
of woven cloth made in the tejido style weaving (Taken by Ai Wan Choong in
Oaxaca, Mexico July 31, 2014)
This
is a more advanced, two pedaled loom where products are faster and easier to
make (Taken by Jay Vanderveen outside of Oaxaca, Mexico, July 31, 2014)
As
depicted in Diego Rivera’s mural, woven clothing was a major part of Native
American culture before the invasion of the Spanish (Taken by Sydney Lute-Ardnt
in Mexico City, Mexico August 10, 2014)
This
is an example of woven clothing worn by Native Americans. Note the use of many
reds, a common color for the time (Taken by Sydney Lute-Ardnt in Mexico City,
Mexico at the Museum of Anthropology August 10, 2014)
The
men (right) are wearing woven products as part of their Native American
tradition (Taken outside of Oaxaca, Mexico (Guelaguetza 2014) July 21, 2014)
Woven
goods are a staple of the Oaxacan economy today as shown in this stall of a
street market (Taken by Sydney Lute-Arndt in Mexico City, Mexico August 10,
2014)
Today,
the popular weaving style has been adapted to modern products such as these
backpacks (Taken by Sydney Lute-Ardnt in Mexico City, Mexico August 10, 2014)
References
"Cochineal:
The Royal Red of Natural Dyes - ClothRoads." ClothRoads. N.p., n.d.
Web. 13 Aug. 2014.
"Cochineal."
Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, 15 Aug. 2014. Web. 13 Aug. 2014.
"Intriguing
Tradition: Organic Color Dyes by The Zapotecs." Zoku Handicrafts.
N.p., n.d. Web. 13 Aug. 2014.
"Natural
Dyeing and Weaving Workshop." Carolynkallenborn.com. N.p., n.d.
Web. 13 Aug. 2014.
"Porfirio
Gutiérrez Y Familia - The Process: Natural Dyes." Porfirio Gutiérrez Y
Familia - The Process: Natural Dyes.
N.p., n.d. Web. 13 Aug. 2014.
"Zapotec
Weavers in Teotitlan Del Valle, Oaxaca - Artisans in Focus - Weaving History." Zapotec Weavers in
Teotitlan Del Valle, Oaxaca - Artisans in Focus - Weaving History. N.p., n.d. Web. 13 Aug. 2014.