Jewelry of Mexican Culture

Gold from Tomb 7

Oaxaca, Mexico

Jade mask from Tomb 7

Oaxaca, Mexico

Jade from Tomb 7

Oaxaca, Mexico

Obsidian

Mexico City, Mexico

Necklace made from shells

Mexico City, Mexico

Necklaces made from shells

Mexico City, Mexico

Gold beads and pendants

Mexico City, Mexico

Bronze ear plugs and choker

Mexico City, Mexico

Jewelry made from metals and beads

Mexico City, Mexico

Stone ear plugs and necklace

Mexico City, Mexico

Necklace made of gold (left), 

necklace made of stone and gold beads (right), 

gold and bronze pendants (center)

Mexico City, Mexico

Adornments of gold and turquoise (center)

Mexico City, Mexico

Various stones and shells for sale

Mexico City, Mexico

Jewelry of Mexican Culture

 Christina Gruzdov

Beautiful jewelry can be found all over Mexico. It is treasured both for its artistry and its value in cultural heritage. In pre-Hispanic times, Oaxaca had an abundance of gold deposits that were readily available for crafting.  Gold and silver were predominantly used for religious ceremonies. Gold represented the sun and silver was associated with the moon. When the Spanish arrived in Mexico, they dismantled the jewelry industry in order to prevent the worship of native gods. Friars and priests then instructed Oaxacans, in Spanish techniques, to create religious pieces, such as crucifixes. There is a major contrast between the accessories of ancient cultures and modern day Mexico. Jewelry made of gold in that epoch was of superior quality. It is difficult to reproduce it to the same quality today, even with our advanced technology. Gold and silver were not the only materials used. Throughout the different regions of Mexico, people used bronze, shells, amber, jade, obsidian and various types of rocks.

Mixtec Goldsmiths

All the gold that was exchanged between the Mesoamerican elites came out of Oaxaca. It was obtained from the sands of rivers around Chinantla, Sosola and Tututepec. Goldsmiths used several techniques in hot and cold variation including: welding, smelting, cutting and embossing. The tradition of the Mixtec goldsmith peaked in 800 A.D. They were renowned for a technique called “false watermarking.” This showcased a unique characterization of their designs as well as a high degree of refinement. At that time, their excellent artwork of gold, silver, copper and bronze was spread throughout the regions of Mexico. Archaeological excavations in Oaxaca have rescued several pieces from Monte Albán. 121 objects of gold, silver and jade were recovered.

Shells and Snails

Beautification of one’s self was common among high-born characters. Shells signified individuals of upper hierarchy. The shell ornaments formed an indispensable part of clothing and personal adornment, and were important indicators of social class. Bangles, bracelets, pectorals and gold foil were sewn to clothing. Imagination and creativity were poured into these delicate masterpieces. The Mixtec, along with many other groups, made all kinds of objects from shells and snails. An emblem of a “cut-snail” and a “feathered serpent” was used to symbolize the god of wind, who was also believed to be the creator of the Mixtec group.

Obsidian

Obsidian is a naturally occurring volcanic glass formed as an extrusive igneous rock. Basically, it is a rock that is formed when lava or magma cools, with minimal crystallization. It was associated with the god Yaa Chu’ma Inu, which stood for patron of the night. The obsidian industry was significant in Teotihuacan, as it maintained control over the raw material supply in Mesoamerica. They also controlled the distribution of finished goods. Craft development allowed the existence of specialized obsidian workshops. Jewelry was fashioned along with tools, such as: ceremonial knives, projectile points, prismatic blades, scrapers, masks, earmuffs, and much more. Obsidian adornments were used in great religious and civic ceremonies in their death rituals. Besides its ornamental function, it had other implications for social ceremonies and were associated with military practice as insignia of rank.

Amber

Amber was regarded as the sacred stone of the sea. Its color symbolizes the sun and relates to gold. It also evoked the color of the “new skin” of the earth before the rainy season. For this reason, it is linked to the god Xipe, who was the god of spring. He was also the patron god of goldsmiths. The pre-Hispanic amber ornaments include pendants, beads, ear plugs, nose plugs and lip plugs. The pendants have a perforation on one end and often follow the natural form of the pebble. Some pendants have also been found by archaeologists, representing ducks’ heads, such as in the collar from Monte Albán’s Tomb 7. Four pairs of amber ear spools were also discovered in the tomb.

Jade

It is assumed that the Mayans were the first to utilize jade. It was shaped into a variety of objects, including figurines, ear spools, belt décor, pectoral coverings and teeth inlays. The most popular of jade objects were ear spools. They were worn to enhance and advertise the status of the wearer. Jade was found in Monte Albán’s Tomb 7. This is evidence of trade between cultures. The Zapotecs used their arts to commemorate the living and also to accompany the dead to the afterlife. More than 150 elaborate tombs were found within the ruins of Monte Albán containing jewelry and figurines made of gold, copper, jade, obsidian and more.

Today

There is a contrast in today’s Mexican culture pertaining to jewelry. Half of the industry makes handmade in-house authentic pieces that reflect their culture and the other half completely modernize their collections. Artisans producing jewelry in the traditional manner have felt pressure from overseas because much of the jewelry sold in Oaxaca today was manufactured in China. This art needs to be preserved. There is a shop in downtown Oaxaca called Oro De Monte Albán. They were the first specialized shop for jewelry in that area. In 1985, they obtained the authorization of the National Institute of Anthropology and History of Mexico, to reproduce pre-Hispanic jewelry and jewelry that was found in Tomb 7. They replicate the jewelry of ancient civilizations and use the same techniques as the ancient cultures did in order to achieve the most authentic look.

In conclusion, jewelry had many different meanings within each culture. Some used it as status symbols while other cultures used it to honor the gods or the deceased. Enormous amounts of time and effort went into crafting the unique pieces of the past and are difficult to replicate with the same quality levels, even with our technological advancements. The Mexicans of ancient times had style. I would totally rock their jewelry!

WORKS CITED

Admin. “The Jewelry of Oaxaca.” Los Amigos Del Arte Popular. Feb 15 2012. Web. Aug 14

            2014. < http://www.ladap.org/jewelry-oaxaca/>

Museo Nacional De Antropologia. “Culturas De Oaxaca.” Mexico City, Mexico. 2014.

“Our Company.” Oro De Monte Albán. Web. Aug 14 2014. <http://www.orodemontealban.

com/our_company.php>

Wikipedia. Web. 2014.